On Horseback Through Patagonia: Day 2 – Show Me the Mate

(Tuesday, November 20, 2007; 29 Kms. El Manzano- Cruce El Maitén [Bifurcación Pto. Tranquilo/Guadall, Lago Negro])

Everyone back home in NYC warned me that my legs would feel sore the first few days of riding a horse.  I was pleased to find that this was not the case this morning when I was awoken by a call from outside the tent window to “!levantate!” (wake up!)  at 5 AM.  Nevertheless, my lower back did feel a bit tender and I certainly was not quite ready to jump right back on the horse.  Fortunately, I had some time to be on my own two feet as we didn’t leave camp until around 8 AM.  There was much to do before heading out.  We had to pack up our tents and all of our belongings and prepare our horses for another long day on the road, which includes feeding them, brushing them, showing them love and preparing the saddles.  The supposedly “simple” life of the gauchos is certainly not effortless. 

 

Regardless of all of the responsibilities involved in the gaucho lifestyle, there is always time for a few rounds of yerba mate, a type of tea that is traditional to Chilean Patagonia, among other South American countries.  While I enjoyed the pungent taste- a combination of tea and coffee, I preferred the ceremony around it.  Friends gathered around in a circle and one person would be in control of filling the gourd with the tea, the hot (but not boiling) water, and the metal straw.  He would then pass it around one person at a time, refilling the gourd with more water for the next lucky participant.  I learned that down to the details of how the tea is added, how and when the water is mixed, how the straw is inserted for drinking, how the tea is brewed and passed amongst the tea drinkers is important. 

                                                                   

I made a mistake this morning from which I have learned a lesson that I would not forget.  I said “gracias” after receiving the matte drink.  As a result, I was left out of future rounds.  I discovered that I should only say “thank you” when I feel satisfied and don’t want anymore.  I really could have used the extra rounds of mate as the initial energy that I had gained from it quickly wore off after the first hour; and thereafter I realized that this was going to be a long and intense day.  As this was only the second day, I felt that this nine-day cabalgata was going to be an endless experience.  While everyone else looked so comfortable and “at home”, chatting and laughing amongst themselves, I was struggling to keep a steady rhythm, or at least to stay onboard. 

                                                                   

La Coneja was not cooperating; she was indeed acting like a rabbit.  She would go from walking so slowly that I actually would start to fall asleep (yes, I got drowsy riding a horse, regardless of the fact that I had no idea what I was doing and should have been nervously focusing on staying balanced and in control) to racing ahead so quickly that I had to hold on for dear life so as not to be thrust aside like road kill!  I felt like I was the lead role in a slapstick film about a gringo trying to participate in a horse ride.  I never thought that riding a horse could be like bungee jumping but in essence that is what it felt like as I would be thrust ahead with great speed and intensity and then found myself barely moving, just hanging out.  With every step and subsequent weight shift on the horse, I had to remind myself of why the hell I was riding a horse.  I invite you to join me  for a few seconds to see what it was like to ride La Coneja: [video]

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By mid day, we had made it into the town of Puerto Betlrand, which overlooked the stunningly tranquil General Carrera lake, Chile’s largest.  Here, like in Cochrane, we were warmly received by local residents.  Although this town felt smaller and more deserted, once we arrived, our presence and solidarity filled the town with energy.  The arrival of so many horse riders demonstrated the strength behind those who are fighting the proposed dams.  The vigor, motivation and passion amongst us and those with whom we were in contact grew with each moment.  This was so important as many people in the towns and communities that we will be passing along the journey are undecided about the proposed project.  The ambivalence is the result of the perception that it is already a done deal; people feel that it is not worth their while to take the time or energy protest.  However, when more than three dozen people from all over Chile, the US and Europe come together to voice their disapproval and fortitude to prevent such a project, we saw the beginnings of an influential affect.  It certainly was the motivator that kept me on my horse all day and will have to keep me motivated for the next eight days. 

                                                                                 

                                                                           

Although the day was challenging, I was well rewarded with a most excellent campsite at the Cruce El Maitén on Lago Negro.  In addition, we celebrated the end of another successful day with mate, wine and an asada of delicious local vegetables and a bar-b-q consisting of a select number of recently captured lambs, which were roasting slowly by the fire, nailed to a stick.  Kris and Doug Tompkins (see http://www.theconservationlandtrust.org/eng_chile/index.htm for more information about them and their work in Chile) joined us for dinner and a musical celebration of accordion playing and dancing late in to the night.