On Horseback Through Patagonia: Day 8 - Hitching a Ride

Monday, November 26, 2007 - 28 KM. Melipal (Sector Cruce Balmaceda-Ibáñez)- Escuela NOLS (Frente entrada Valle Simpson):

I was surprised that I was one of a grand total of five vegetarians on this journey!  It was nice to share trail mix and fruit with the others.  In fact, as the days progressed on the cabalgata, more and more people were tempted by our treats.  One colleague, Juan Pablo, 20 years old of the Jovenes Tehuelches (http://jovenestehuelches.blogspot.com/, http://www.jovenestehuelches.cl/), had been lightheartedly bothering me about not eating meat since the first day; but today, he came up to me and said “no quiero comer carne mas…nunca mas!”  (He didn’t want to eat meat ever again!)   This is to say that there has certainly been a lot of meat on this trip- breakfast, lunch and dinner consisted of sheep or other red meat in addition to bread made of animal lard, and perhaps some lettuce and tomatoes.  Every day we have had asadas. 

Just as people share matte and wine, they too share the knives to cut off pieces of meat.  Fortunately, Juan Pablo wouldn’t have to eat only meat tonight, as we had been promised a celebration dinner at the NOLS School where we would camp this evening that would consist of fine foods including beans, guacamole and fresh fruit!  In addition, we were assured there would be hot showers.  You have no idea how excited I was for both! 

The NOLS School is located just outside of Coyhaique.  As there was still some preparation left for tomorrow, I hitchhiked into Coyhaique with Francine, one of the youngest Jovenes Tehuelches, to help with final arrangements for tomorrow.  Francine is just 16 years old and already has the drive of an activist.  She had read about the cabalgata in the newspaper and arranged to participate by taking her mid-term exams ahead of time.  She explained to me that a few of her teachers wouldn’t let her do the work ahead of time because they approve of the HydroAysen project; however, she protested their refusal to show her support against the dams. 

In Coyhaique, we went to the Coalition’s office to paint banners for tomorrow.  As we left the city looking for a ride back, we stopped everyone on the streets informing them about tomorrow’s event; most of them already knew about it and promised to be there.  Although Francine does not live in Coyhaique she has relatives there and seemed to know almost everyone we passed.  Francine, among the other younger participants on this cavalcade, has truly impressed me with her dedication to this cause.  The student involvement in the campaign and in this cabalgata has been particularly meaningful to the older gauchos who fear that it is the younger generations who are letting the gaucho culture disappear.  While it is true that many younger people are selling their land, all is certainly not lost.  Romina is a testament to this.  She is four years old and can ride a horse better than most of the people on the trip, even some of the more experienced jinetes!  And, she can shout in protest louder and more vividly than most!