Burning Man: The Sunny Side of the Desert

If you were in Reno during Labor Day weekend, you may have seen many dust-caked vehicles heavily loaded with camping equipment and bicycles; people in line at hotels or at the airport equally caked in dust from head to toe- many sporting braids, dreadlocks, or even pink fuzzy bunny ears.

My every movement was also punctuated by a cloud of dust as I joined tens of thousands of people returning from Burning Man- a festival that takes place on the Black Rock Desert, about a 2-hour drive from Reno.

For 4 of the last 5 years, I have taken my vacation during the week before Labor Day.  I grab a carry-on bag with clothes and *empty* water containers - my tent and larger equipment is always shipped in advance- and fly to Reno to buy last minute supplies and find transportation to the desert.  In past years, this has included a version of hitchhiking: hanging out with other "Burners" at the airport or "Burning Man Hostel" until someone shows up offering rides.  At the end of the event, I may hold a "RENO AIRPORT" sign until a car or RV offers a ride.  This year my trip was slightly more civilized- friends and I pooled together to rent cars.

It's always hard to describe Burning Man to people who have never been.  The event itself lasts a week during which a city of tents, geodesic domes, and art installations is built in the middle of an ancient lakebed.  During this one week, Black Rock City becomes one of Nevada's largest cities- this year claiming a population of over 47,000.  It even has a zip code and its own post office!  (Yes, I received mail- a birthday card from my partner back home.)  In a nutshell, Burning Man can be described as an artistic project or social experiment in community-building, radical self-expression and self-reliance.  Participants hold themselves and each other responsible for the protection of the city's environment, attempting to "Leave No Trace" of the city's existence.  This year, the organizers took this commitment further in naming "The Green Man" as the artistic theme.  (For detailed info including its history, its themes, and its ten principles, see www.burningman.com.)  The name is derived from the 40-foot wooden effigy that is burned at the climax of the event in a spectacle that includes drummers, dancers, and fireworks.

The festival attracts people from all walks of life, especially those on the fringe.  Imagine a "meeting of the tribes" of counterculture, where one's self-expression is not hindered by social restraints.  Outrageous costumes or even nudity are not only accepted, they are celebrated.  Now imagine this happening where temperatures can easily fluctuate from over 100 degrees in the daylight sun to 50 or even 40 degrees at night; where the terrain is composed of alkaline dust that can dry your skin to the point of cracking and bleeding (as I painfully learned my first year); where a hot breeze can quickly and ominously turn to a wind strong enough to break the struts of a brand new canopy.  Shade structures are recommended and water a sheer necessity- a minimum of one gallon per person per day.  To those fortunate enough to bring a power generator, some light and perhaps a fan is the ultimate luxury.  It's not uncommon for me to start the week off feeling cranky and ill as my body adjusts to the conditions- dehydration and heat stroke a constant threat.  For those of us with less than perfect respiratory systems, asthma attacks, sinus headaches, and sore throats are also a risk.  (After a few years of bad experiences I had compiled a small cooler filled with a mini-pharmacy, ready to tackle anything the desert could throw at me.  As if she knew I was ready, she spared me the need for meds.  Campmates, however, gratefully took advantage of my collection.)

So why go?  For every "Burner" the answer is unique.  True, I enjoy the freedom to wear tutus and fairy wings, or to pair a formal gown with knee-high laced biker boots.  But ultimately for me the event is about changing perspective; hitting a "re-set" button so to speak.  The conditions of the desert are so extreme that I am forced to reconsider my priorities.  Family drama, student loans, and even report deadlines (sorry Phil) sound trivial when I realize that a sandstorm is starting, I've run out of water, and I'm about a mile and a half away from my camp.  Experiencing nature at its most extreme, life becomes simple and beautiful.  I am both humbled and strengthened by her power.  A full harvest moon on the rise or a double rainbow following a storm inspires awe, and my voice joins in on the cheering and celebration that spreads across the city.  The experience is truly unlike any other.  I return to the "default" world physically exhausted, yet mentally and emotionally renewed.

*One post is not enough to share my experiences and observations at Burning Man, so look for more posts soon to come.

**To my fellow Burners reading this post, you may recognize me as "Smeagol" from the Freedom Community Village at 7:30 and Intertidal.  (I hosted the Silent Tea Parties.)

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Burning Bikes: The Wacky, Weird Vehicles of Burning Man on October 15, 2007 6:33 PM

One of the most interesting parts of Burning Man, at least for this gearhead, is the wacky collection of vehicles. Not your basic choppers or streetfighters...oh no, those would be far too normal for a Burner (as many participants call themselves). Just